Learning to live with wildlife is a win-win!
Peaceful Coexistence
Education and compassion are the keys to coexisting with any form of wildlife. As wild animals find their natural environment shrinking daily, their interaction with humans increases often with disastrous results for the animals. When they take up residence in someone’s home, destroy the garden, rummage through garbage cans or raid the songbird feeder, they are just looking for food or a place to live – they don’t deserve to be killed for such actions.
Chances are if you call an exterminator (which is very expensive) or animal control, the animal will be killed after it is caught.
Before doing that, however, first read more about your wild neighbor to alleviate some of your fears and concerns and then try the suggestions for humanely encouraging him to move elsewhere. Be patient and compassionate. He doesn’t want to be any closer to you than you want to be to him – he is just trying to survive.
Education and compassion are the keys to coexisting with any form of wildlife. As wild animals find their natural environment shrinking daily, their interaction with humans increases often with disastrous results for the animals. When they take up residence in someone’s home, destroy the garden, rummage through garbage cans or raid the songbird feeder, they are just looking for food or a place to live – they don’t deserve to be killed for such actions.
Chances are if you call an exterminator (which is very expensive) or animal control, the animal will be killed after it is caught.
Before doing that, however, first read more about your wild neighbor to alleviate some of your fears and concerns and then try the suggestions for humanely encouraging him to move elsewhere. Be patient and compassionate. He doesn’t want to be any closer to you than you want to be to him – he is just trying to survive.
Skunks
Skunk Facts
There are four different kinds of skunks found in the United States. The spotted and striped skunks are the most widely distributed and therefore more likely to come into contact with people. The hooded and hog-nosed skunks are rarer and found mostly in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. The spotted skunk prefers the country and spends most of its life near farms. The striped skunk is more adaptable and lives in a variety of habitats.
Skunks are placid, retiring and non-aggressive. They try very hard not to get in harm’s way. They have a home range of a few hundred acres at most. They are primarily nocturnal and usually solitary – except when mothers are raising their babies. They are active throughout the year, but in northern areas, they spend the coldest parts of the winter in their dens.
Skunks eat mostly insects, many of which are pests to humans. They are therefore very beneficial to have around. They also eat some plant material, including wild fruits, apples and corn. In winter and spring they may eat mice and the eggs of ground-nesting birds.
Breeding usually occurs in late winter or early spring and gestation averages about 60-75 days, so babies are usually born in May or June. Second litters and late births do occur. After mating, a female can store the male’s sperm and delay initiating pregnancy for some weeks. Litters range from 3 to as many as 10 young who remain in the nest for about two months, after which they begin to follow their mom as she forages.
All skunks seem able to dig their own burrows but will also use abandoned dens of other animals, hollow logs, wood or rock piles, under buildings, stone walls, hay or brush piles and trees or stumps.
The skunk’s main defense is a complex chemical substance that includes sulfuric acid that can be fired from either one of two independently targetable anal glands. Because of this ability, skunks will stand and face a threat rather than run away. This works well with people and animals but is useless against cars. As a result, many skunks die on roadways -- to the point of being wiped out entirely from areas with a lot of traffic.
Skunks can carry rabies, but it is important to remember that not every skunk is rabid. Only if an adult skunk seen in the daytime is showing abnormal behaviors such as paralysis, unprovoked aggression, moving in circles, self-mutilation should you call your local animal control officer or police department.
Problems and Solutions
Occasional skunk sightings in a neighborhood doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem. Measures can be taken to discourage skunks from sticking around. These include removing garbage and pet food left out at night and eliminating convenient denning sites such as wood and rock piles, elevated sheds, openings under concrete slabs and porches and access to crawl spaces under houses.
Skunks are usually announced more from smell than sight. Musk odor might linger for days where a skunk has sprayed. Persistent, faint musk smells associated with a 4-6 inch diameter hole under a building or woodpile indicates that a skunk may have taken up residence. If you discover a den that you suspect might belong to a skunk, first check to see if the occupancy is current. This may be done by loosely filling the hole (or holes) with soil, leaves or material such as straw. If a skunk is present, it will easily push its way out that night and reopen the hole. If the plug remains undisturbed for two or three nights (and it is not winter), it is safe to assume that the hole is unoccupied and can be permanently closed. If a skunk, or any other animal, is present, either harassment or eviction using a one-way door system is recommended.
Harassment - When it is safe to displace skunks, mild harassment can be very effective. First try repacking the hole the skunk is using with leaves or other material to see if it will get the message and move elsewhere. If this fails, place ammonia-soaked rags near or inside the burrow to one side so that the skunk has to pass them to get in and out. Make sure the skunk is not close by before taking either of these measures.
Eviction – A skunk may be evicted from an active den by installing a one-way door over the entrance to allow it to leave but prevent reentry. These doors are available commercially. One company that sells them is the
Tomahawk Live Trap Company
P. O. Box 323
Tomahawk, Wisconsin 54487
Tel: 1-800-272-8727
Care must be taken to ensure that the door can open without hitting an obstruction. Leave the door in place for two or three nights to be sure that the skunk has left. Be sure that no new holes appear nearby. Remove the door and close the opening.
Please Note: Do not install a one-way door in May or June when there may be babies left behind in the den. The babies will starve and possibly discharge their spray before dying. Instead, either wait for the skunk family to move or use mild harassment to try to accelerate the process. The mother skunk will, under the right circumstances, carry her babies to a new den. Do not permanently seal the opening until the plug remains undisturbed for several nights.
If a skunk becomes trapped in a window well (the basement window area), the best method of freeing it is to provide it with a means of escape. In the well, place a rough board (or one with cleats) that is long enough to act as a ramp to the top. The board should lean no steeper than a 45 degree angle. The board should be slowly and carefully placed by approaching the well low enough to be out of sight of the skunk. If possible, a second person with a vantage point high enough to see the skunk can warn of any signs of its becoming agitated, indicated by the skunk raising its tail or stamping its front feet. If this happens, stop and rethink your strategy. Another method of placing the board is to tie it to the end of a long pole and lower it by holding the opposite end of the pole. Once the board is placed, keep people and pets away from the area until nightfall when the skunk should leave on its own. To prevent this situation from reoccurring, place exit ramps or tight-fitting covers at each window well.
Removing Skunk Odor
On Pets: Skunk odor may be neutralized with liberal amounts of vinegar or tomato juice. This will make the odor tolerable. Only time will eliminate it.
On Clothes: Combine 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon liquid soap (laundry or dishwashing soap).
On Inanimate Objects: Chlorine bleach, ammonia or commercial products containing neutroleum alpha may be used.
On People: Carbolic soap and water are safe to use on skin. Liberal flushing with cold water will ease the discomfort of skunk spray in the eyes.
Each year untold numbers of skunks are killed because someone is afraid of getting sprayed; yet those who are familiar with skunks know that it takes a lot to get sprayed. Hopefully, through education people will begin to recognize and understand the role that these mild animals have to play and the benefits of tolerating their presence.
For more detailed information on skunks, visit Project Wildlife
There are four different kinds of skunks found in the United States. The spotted and striped skunks are the most widely distributed and therefore more likely to come into contact with people. The hooded and hog-nosed skunks are rarer and found mostly in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. The spotted skunk prefers the country and spends most of its life near farms. The striped skunk is more adaptable and lives in a variety of habitats.
Skunks are placid, retiring and non-aggressive. They try very hard not to get in harm’s way. They have a home range of a few hundred acres at most. They are primarily nocturnal and usually solitary – except when mothers are raising their babies. They are active throughout the year, but in northern areas, they spend the coldest parts of the winter in their dens.
Skunks eat mostly insects, many of which are pests to humans. They are therefore very beneficial to have around. They also eat some plant material, including wild fruits, apples and corn. In winter and spring they may eat mice and the eggs of ground-nesting birds.
Breeding usually occurs in late winter or early spring and gestation averages about 60-75 days, so babies are usually born in May or June. Second litters and late births do occur. After mating, a female can store the male’s sperm and delay initiating pregnancy for some weeks. Litters range from 3 to as many as 10 young who remain in the nest for about two months, after which they begin to follow their mom as she forages.
All skunks seem able to dig their own burrows but will also use abandoned dens of other animals, hollow logs, wood or rock piles, under buildings, stone walls, hay or brush piles and trees or stumps.
The skunk’s main defense is a complex chemical substance that includes sulfuric acid that can be fired from either one of two independently targetable anal glands. Because of this ability, skunks will stand and face a threat rather than run away. This works well with people and animals but is useless against cars. As a result, many skunks die on roadways -- to the point of being wiped out entirely from areas with a lot of traffic.
Skunks can carry rabies, but it is important to remember that not every skunk is rabid. Only if an adult skunk seen in the daytime is showing abnormal behaviors such as paralysis, unprovoked aggression, moving in circles, self-mutilation should you call your local animal control officer or police department.
Problems and Solutions
Occasional skunk sightings in a neighborhood doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem. Measures can be taken to discourage skunks from sticking around. These include removing garbage and pet food left out at night and eliminating convenient denning sites such as wood and rock piles, elevated sheds, openings under concrete slabs and porches and access to crawl spaces under houses.
Skunks are usually announced more from smell than sight. Musk odor might linger for days where a skunk has sprayed. Persistent, faint musk smells associated with a 4-6 inch diameter hole under a building or woodpile indicates that a skunk may have taken up residence. If you discover a den that you suspect might belong to a skunk, first check to see if the occupancy is current. This may be done by loosely filling the hole (or holes) with soil, leaves or material such as straw. If a skunk is present, it will easily push its way out that night and reopen the hole. If the plug remains undisturbed for two or three nights (and it is not winter), it is safe to assume that the hole is unoccupied and can be permanently closed. If a skunk, or any other animal, is present, either harassment or eviction using a one-way door system is recommended.
Harassment - When it is safe to displace skunks, mild harassment can be very effective. First try repacking the hole the skunk is using with leaves or other material to see if it will get the message and move elsewhere. If this fails, place ammonia-soaked rags near or inside the burrow to one side so that the skunk has to pass them to get in and out. Make sure the skunk is not close by before taking either of these measures.
Eviction – A skunk may be evicted from an active den by installing a one-way door over the entrance to allow it to leave but prevent reentry. These doors are available commercially. One company that sells them is the
Tomahawk Live Trap Company
P. O. Box 323
Tomahawk, Wisconsin 54487
Tel: 1-800-272-8727
Care must be taken to ensure that the door can open without hitting an obstruction. Leave the door in place for two or three nights to be sure that the skunk has left. Be sure that no new holes appear nearby. Remove the door and close the opening.
Please Note: Do not install a one-way door in May or June when there may be babies left behind in the den. The babies will starve and possibly discharge their spray before dying. Instead, either wait for the skunk family to move or use mild harassment to try to accelerate the process. The mother skunk will, under the right circumstances, carry her babies to a new den. Do not permanently seal the opening until the plug remains undisturbed for several nights.
If a skunk becomes trapped in a window well (the basement window area), the best method of freeing it is to provide it with a means of escape. In the well, place a rough board (or one with cleats) that is long enough to act as a ramp to the top. The board should lean no steeper than a 45 degree angle. The board should be slowly and carefully placed by approaching the well low enough to be out of sight of the skunk. If possible, a second person with a vantage point high enough to see the skunk can warn of any signs of its becoming agitated, indicated by the skunk raising its tail or stamping its front feet. If this happens, stop and rethink your strategy. Another method of placing the board is to tie it to the end of a long pole and lower it by holding the opposite end of the pole. Once the board is placed, keep people and pets away from the area until nightfall when the skunk should leave on its own. To prevent this situation from reoccurring, place exit ramps or tight-fitting covers at each window well.
Removing Skunk Odor
On Pets: Skunk odor may be neutralized with liberal amounts of vinegar or tomato juice. This will make the odor tolerable. Only time will eliminate it.
On Clothes: Combine 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide with 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon liquid soap (laundry or dishwashing soap).
On Inanimate Objects: Chlorine bleach, ammonia or commercial products containing neutroleum alpha may be used.
On People: Carbolic soap and water are safe to use on skin. Liberal flushing with cold water will ease the discomfort of skunk spray in the eyes.
Each year untold numbers of skunks are killed because someone is afraid of getting sprayed; yet those who are familiar with skunks know that it takes a lot to get sprayed. Hopefully, through education people will begin to recognize and understand the role that these mild animals have to play and the benefits of tolerating their presence.
For more detailed information on skunks, visit Project Wildlife
Raccoons
A raccoon is one of the most fascinating and intelligent of wild animals. There are seven different species of raccoons. They are related to ringtails, coatimundis, kinkajous, and lesser pandas. The name raccoon comes from the Indian word "arakum" meaning "he scratches with his hands." The raccoon is easily recognized by its black facemask and ringed tail. The mask helps reduce glare while aiding in camouflage and may enhance night vision. The tail is used as fat storage, for balance when climbing and as a brace when sitting up. Raccoon fur is long and dense. Adults may get as big as 40 inches in length (including the tail) and weigh up to 40 pounds. Their average lifespan in the wild is anywhere from 5 to 8 years. The greatest mortality occurs during the first two years of life – the principal cause of which is man.
Adult males tend to be solitary; matriarchal family groups are quite social and will feed and den together into the fall. Other raccoons will defer to a female with babies in feeding situations. The home range of an adult male is about one mile in diameter, although is expands in size during the breeding season. Adult females and their young inhabit smaller areas. A raccoon uses several dens within its home range. Babies will stay with the mother close to a year. Females give birth to an average litter of 3-4 babies each Spring. Raccoons do not hibernate, but they do go through a period of decreased activity during the winter which is also their mating season.
Raccoons do not construct their own den sites but rely on natural processes or the work of other animals. They usually den in hollow trees, rock crevices and ground dens. Active den trees are identified by claw marks or worn bark. Suitable ground dens include abandoned buildings, car bodies, wood or brush piles, hay stacks, rock crevices and abandoned dens of other animals.
Raccoons are opportunistic omnivores eating a variety of foods. They love corn and grapes and garbage pails and outside pet dishes are among their favorite urban dining spots. When living adjacent to saltwater habitats, they feed on oysters and other saltwater foods and may fish for crabs by dropping their tail in the water and jumping forward when the crab catches hold.
Raccoons are inquisitive and seldom pass up the opportunity to investigate an interesting smell or crevice. They are extremely agile climbers and have nimble feet but are flat-footed and relatively slow runners. Because their front toes can be opened wide, the forepaws can be used skillfully to handle food and other objects. Their little hands can bring food to their mouths and hold it while they eat. They can also open locks, unlatch bird feeders, open up garbage cans, etc.
A major cause of concern with raccoons is rabies. While raccoons can get rabies (just like any other mammal), that DOES NOT mean that every raccoon has rabies. A study in upstate NY showed that among animals testing positive for rabies, the raccoon was not at the top of the list. Even so, precautions must be taken when encountering a raccoon. These are wild animals that should be treated with respect and left alone. Children should be taught not to approach or touch a raccoon the same as they are taught not to approach any unknown animal, wild or domestic. Just because a raccoon is seen in daytime does not mean it is rabid. Mother raccoons sometimes forage during the day when they are nursing babies. Only if an adult raccoon seen in the daytime is showing abnormal behaviors such as paralysis, unprovoked aggression, moving in circles, self-mutilation, making screeching sounds, or showing supreme tameness should you call your local animal control officer or police department.
Another concern is the property damage caused by raccoons. They can be destructive. It is your responsibility to raccoon-proof your home. Cover up potential entrances, such as uncapped chimneys, loose shingles and openings in attics, roofs and eaves. Trim all overhanging tree branches or any other structure that animals might use to get onto the roof of the house or garage.
If you already have raccoons in the house but you’re not sure where they are getting in, sprinkle flour around possible entrances and check for footprints later. Make a raccoon den unlivable. Raccoons dislike loud noises, bright lights and strong smells. Put a blaring radio in the fireplace. Sprinkle napha flakes or hang ammonia-soaked cotton rags near the entrance and keep the area brightly lit. Apply these deterrents at dusk only; even harassed mother raccoons won’t move their babies in daytime. Make sure that all raccoons or other animals have left before sealing up holes in any part of a building. This is especially important from March-June when there may be babies. If a mother has taken up residence in your chimney or attic the best and kindest solution is to wait a few weeks for the raccoons to move out on their own. Don’t worry about any smell or mess—mother raccoons clean their babies meticulously to avoid attracting predators. Avoid a direct confrontation. A female with babies is quite capable of defending her family. It may take a few days for the mother to move her young, so be patient. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a chimney sweep to install a metal chimney cap (or seal any holes leading to the attic) and this situation will never occur again. Remember—the only permanent solution is to seal all entry holes once the animals have left.
Overflowing or uncovered garbage cans provide an open invitation for hungry raccoons. The simplest solution is to put out your garbage cans for pick-up in the morning, after the nocturnal raccoons have returned to their dens. If this is impossible, get a good plastic garbage can with a 4-inch high, tight fitting twist-on lid, such as the kind made by Rubbermaid. Keep the can upright by wrapping bungee cords around the middle and securing it to an upright object. Do not leave pet food in the yard.
If you want to learn more about raccoons, check-out Raccoon Attic Guide.
Adult males tend to be solitary; matriarchal family groups are quite social and will feed and den together into the fall. Other raccoons will defer to a female with babies in feeding situations. The home range of an adult male is about one mile in diameter, although is expands in size during the breeding season. Adult females and their young inhabit smaller areas. A raccoon uses several dens within its home range. Babies will stay with the mother close to a year. Females give birth to an average litter of 3-4 babies each Spring. Raccoons do not hibernate, but they do go through a period of decreased activity during the winter which is also their mating season.
Raccoons do not construct their own den sites but rely on natural processes or the work of other animals. They usually den in hollow trees, rock crevices and ground dens. Active den trees are identified by claw marks or worn bark. Suitable ground dens include abandoned buildings, car bodies, wood or brush piles, hay stacks, rock crevices and abandoned dens of other animals.
Raccoons are opportunistic omnivores eating a variety of foods. They love corn and grapes and garbage pails and outside pet dishes are among their favorite urban dining spots. When living adjacent to saltwater habitats, they feed on oysters and other saltwater foods and may fish for crabs by dropping their tail in the water and jumping forward when the crab catches hold.
Raccoons are inquisitive and seldom pass up the opportunity to investigate an interesting smell or crevice. They are extremely agile climbers and have nimble feet but are flat-footed and relatively slow runners. Because their front toes can be opened wide, the forepaws can be used skillfully to handle food and other objects. Their little hands can bring food to their mouths and hold it while they eat. They can also open locks, unlatch bird feeders, open up garbage cans, etc.
A major cause of concern with raccoons is rabies. While raccoons can get rabies (just like any other mammal), that DOES NOT mean that every raccoon has rabies. A study in upstate NY showed that among animals testing positive for rabies, the raccoon was not at the top of the list. Even so, precautions must be taken when encountering a raccoon. These are wild animals that should be treated with respect and left alone. Children should be taught not to approach or touch a raccoon the same as they are taught not to approach any unknown animal, wild or domestic. Just because a raccoon is seen in daytime does not mean it is rabid. Mother raccoons sometimes forage during the day when they are nursing babies. Only if an adult raccoon seen in the daytime is showing abnormal behaviors such as paralysis, unprovoked aggression, moving in circles, self-mutilation, making screeching sounds, or showing supreme tameness should you call your local animal control officer or police department.
Another concern is the property damage caused by raccoons. They can be destructive. It is your responsibility to raccoon-proof your home. Cover up potential entrances, such as uncapped chimneys, loose shingles and openings in attics, roofs and eaves. Trim all overhanging tree branches or any other structure that animals might use to get onto the roof of the house or garage.
If you already have raccoons in the house but you’re not sure where they are getting in, sprinkle flour around possible entrances and check for footprints later. Make a raccoon den unlivable. Raccoons dislike loud noises, bright lights and strong smells. Put a blaring radio in the fireplace. Sprinkle napha flakes or hang ammonia-soaked cotton rags near the entrance and keep the area brightly lit. Apply these deterrents at dusk only; even harassed mother raccoons won’t move their babies in daytime. Make sure that all raccoons or other animals have left before sealing up holes in any part of a building. This is especially important from March-June when there may be babies. If a mother has taken up residence in your chimney or attic the best and kindest solution is to wait a few weeks for the raccoons to move out on their own. Don’t worry about any smell or mess—mother raccoons clean their babies meticulously to avoid attracting predators. Avoid a direct confrontation. A female with babies is quite capable of defending her family. It may take a few days for the mother to move her young, so be patient. Once the raccoons are gone, promptly call a chimney sweep to install a metal chimney cap (or seal any holes leading to the attic) and this situation will never occur again. Remember—the only permanent solution is to seal all entry holes once the animals have left.
Overflowing or uncovered garbage cans provide an open invitation for hungry raccoons. The simplest solution is to put out your garbage cans for pick-up in the morning, after the nocturnal raccoons have returned to their dens. If this is impossible, get a good plastic garbage can with a 4-inch high, tight fitting twist-on lid, such as the kind made by Rubbermaid. Keep the can upright by wrapping bungee cords around the middle and securing it to an upright object. Do not leave pet food in the yard.
If you want to learn more about raccoons, check-out Raccoon Attic Guide.